Hiking in Vietnam: Climbing the Highest Mountain in Indochina

More than 12 years ago, when I first fell head over hiking boots in love with mountains, I made myself a little promise: I’d climb the highest peak in every country I visit. Looking back, that may have been slightly naïve. After all, my experience back then was limited to the cute little 3,000-meter peaks of Germany and Austria, nothing too extreme.

But old habits die hard, and to this day, one of the first things I do when I enter a new country is check: What’s the highest peak, and (how) can I climb it?

Wait, people hike in Vietnam?

So, before heading to Vietnam, I did my usual research and found out about Fansipan, the big boss of Indochina. Standing at 3,143 meters, it’s not just Vietnam’s highest mountain but also the tallest in the entire region (Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia). Located in the north, about 9 km from Sa Pa, it was already on my itinerary. Sounds doable, right?

How exactly do you get up there?

After exploring Hanoi and surviving the madness of Ha Giang, I hopped on a classic Vietnamese night bus that rattled me all the way to Sa Pa. From there, I continued to a tiny village called Ta Van in the dreamy Muong Hoa Valley, home to endless layers of rice terraces and misty mountains. A perfect spot to get lost and have a first little hike in the mountains.

Okay, I wasn’t totally alone…

Once in Ta Van, I started looking into Fansipan tours and was… surprised. Barely any route descriptions, minimal info online, and only a handful of trekking companies offering guided tours. Oh, and everyone kept warning me not to do it alone. Something about intense fog, unpredictable weather, and a total lack of trail signs. Details, right?

So, like any sensible person, I asked the receptionist at my homestay what she thought, and this is how it went:

Me: Hey, I’d like to hike Fansipan in one day.

Her: (stares at me like I just suggested skydiving without a parachute)

Her: You know this is usually a two- or three-day trek, right?

Me: Mhm, but I don’t have that much time. Is there anyone who’d do a one-day trip?

After making a few calls, she came back with a grin and said, “Well, most guides don’t offer a one-day climb, but I found one crazy enough to take you. Be ready at 4 AM.”

Me: Hell. Yes.

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Good to know ❗

To climb Fansipan, you need a permit, since it’s in a national park near the border. The permit costs 1,500,000 VND (around €55) and is usually included in guided tours. Also, do not attempt this solo. Fog, rapidly changing weather, and zero signage make it way too risky in a foreign region.

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What have I gooten myself into?!

As I packed my tiny daypack that evening, my inner voice got chatty:

😱 I don’t have proper hiking gear with me.

😱 What if the guide doesn’t show up?

😱 What if I’m the only hiker?

😱 What if it’s just me and a group of men?

😱 What if I’m too unfit for this?!

Before my overthinking could spiral, I flopped onto my mattress in the cozy wooden homestay, had a chat with my sister and reminded myself: this was going to be awesome.

The first adventure: getting to the trailhead

Like a very punctual German, I stood outside my homestay at 3:55 AM, backpack strapped on, ready to roll. What I wasn’t ready for? The 7 degree chill in my light hiking outfit. Oops.

Right on time, I heard an engine roaring in the distance. A second later, a motorbike pulled up and I realized: My shuttle is a good old vietnamese motorbike. How could I ever expect something different?

Butobivously I pleyed it cool. Nothing like riding through pitch-black mountain roads, freezing my butt off on the back of a motorbike, just days after my Ha Giang Loop adventure left my legs still sore.

After 30 minutes of shivering and questioning my life choices, we reached an abandoned gravel lot. My driver motioned for me to hop into the only car in sight, where two men sat waiting. No words, just a nod.

And I got in. Because apparently, I make great decisions at 4 AM.

Fifteen minutes later, the car dropped us off at what looked like an old, haunted train station (srsly why does everything in this country look haunted in the dark?!), except there were no tracks. A uniformed officer squinted at my passport, then flashed the sweetest smile and wished me “Good luck.”

And I was like: Wait… was I really doing this alone? Where's the group I was hoping for?

My guide (aka the motorbike driver from earlier) laughed, “Fansipan one day, really?!”

And I nodded half awake, half terrified with a weird smile on my face. No turning back now.

Follow the trail to the sunrise ☀️

At 5 AM, we set off, just me and my guide, Chu, navigating a barely-there trail in the darkness. The air buzzed with distant night sounds, and I could feel the jungle waking up around us.

Conversation was not super easy but I found out, Chu was 24, and normally, his wife leads the two-day hikes, but she just had a baby (two days ago). So, today, it was his turn to take the crazy foreigner up the mountain.

As we climbed, the world transformed. The first hints of sunrise painted the sky in soft pinks and oranges, illuminating dew-covered leaves. Step by step, the silence grew richer, the view more breathtaking.

Pit stop with a side of vietnamese hospitality

By 8:30 AM, we reached a tiny shelter, a simple wooden shack, yet somehow the coziest place in the world. Inside, an older woman sat by a small fire, casually carving something while a pot bubbled over the flames.

Chu doesn’t show a single sign of exhaustion. Instead, he jumps straight into action, preparing me a meal. Even though I offer to help a few times, he waves me off, insisting that I just sit by the fire and warm up (this was the hardest part for me this day, haha).

The fire was not exactly a roaring bonfire, it’s small, and the heat barely reaches me. So, naturally, I huddle as close as physically possible to soak up every tiny bit of warmth. The woman carving wood next to me notices and gives me a knowing smile, part amused, part sympathetic. She’s layered up properly, with a thick hat and warm clothing, so she definitely has a few layers on me, both literally and figuratively.

As she continues carving and occasionally stirs a pot over the fire, Chu quietly places a small plate of fruit beside me. I turn to the woman and ask with hand and feet if she’d like some too. At first, she hesitates, but then her eyes light up, and she takes a piece (I think it was some kind of pear). It was such a small moment, but her shy yet happy reaction warms my heart just as much as the rice noodle soup with eggs and cabbage that’s now filling my stomach (and I swear, that was one of the most delicious meals I ever had in my whole time in Asia!)

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Did you know that women in Vietnam:

• 💐 …actually have TWO Women’s Days? Besides International Women’s Day on March 8th, Vietnam celebrates Vietnamese Women’s Day on October 20th—with flowers, love, and appreciation from their families.

• 📈 …have been making strides toward gender equality in the economy since Vietnam’s reunification in 1975? Today, women are nearly as present in the workforce as men, making Vietnam a standout in Southeast Asia. Unlike in neighboring Laos or Cambodia, where women often remain in traditional roles, in Vietnam, you’ll find them in all kinds of professions and at every level of management.

• 🏛 …still face male dominance in politics? Despite strong representation in the workforce, politics remains one of the few areas where men still hold most leadership positions.

• ⚔ …played a major role in the Vietnam War? Whether on the frontlines or behind the scenes, women were just as heroic as men—fighting, building, and making enormous sacrifices for their country.

• 🌱 …are no longer just seen as symbols of beauty and grace but as key drivers of Vietnam’s progress? With strength, dedication, and creativity, Vietnamese women are actively shaping the nation’s future.

• ⚖ …benefit from some of the strongest gender equality laws in the region? Vietnam’s parliament passed an Equality Law in 2006, and in 2013, gender discrimination was officially outlawed in the country’s constitution—giving it the highest legal protection possible.

• 📊 …have higher workforce participation compared to many neighboring countries? While women in Laos and Cambodia still tend to work in more traditional roles, Vietnamese women are present across a wide range of professions, including leadership and management positions. However, like in many countries, the gender wage gap and political representation still have room for improvement.

• 
  

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And the climb continues...

With my body warmed up and stomach full, it’s time to get moving again, thank god. My muscles are begging for some activity to shake off the chill.

Just outside the shelter, I run into a British hiker on his way down from a three-day trek. He looks a little defeated, explaining that for the first two days, he saw absolutely nothing but thick, legendary mist. Meanwhile, I glance up at the sky, clear, blue, not a cloud in sight. We’ve already climbed above a thin layer of clouds, and I silently pray that the weather holds just a little longer.

From here, the trail becomes brutally steep, offering almost no spots to rest or take in the stunning views. We barely meet anyone along the way, except for two farmers carrying massive baskets on their backs, filled with who-knows-what. And their footwear? Classic Vietnamese trekking gear: flip-flops. 😅

Once again, the locals prove to me that anything is possible. And I have to laugh at myself for even questioning whether my running shoes would be good enough for this hike, especially since I’d left my hiking boots at home for this trip.

I climbed a mountain... and got a medal?!

After about four hours, we reach the cable car station near the summit. And if you think quiet views, not gonna happen. It was a total culture shock. Suddenly, I’m surrounded by tons of people and a massive, built-up area I definitely wasn’t expecting (even though I knew there was a cable car station up here).

From here, it’s another 200 meters of elevation, mostly stairs, before reaching the actual summit. The final stretch winds between temples and gigantic Buddha statues are obivously not natural, but still leave me in awe.

At this point, I finally manage to outpace Chu, who, up until now, has shown zero signs of fatigue. When I turn around, I see him dragging himself up the last few steps, breathless but grinning as he spots me waiting at the top, hand raised for a high five.

Even though our verbal communication has been pretty minimal, our non-verbal connection is on point, and I’m so glad he was my guide for this adventure.

Then, out of nowhere, Chu digs through his backpack and pulls out a medal and a laminated certificate.

“I’ve never made it up here this fast,” he tells me, explaining that he’s done the one-day trek a few times before, but never in under six hours.

Well, what can I say? Never underestimate a German woman on a mission. 😎

Final thoughts? 10/10 would do again.

Even now, I can still picture the unreal view from the top of Fansipan,the layered ridges and shifting shades of the Hoàng Liên Sơn mountain range.

Despite the wild start, I never once regretted doing this trek solo as a woman. The Vietnamese people are some of the warmest and most welcoming I’ve ever met, and their entire culture, especially the strength of Vietnamese women, left a lasting impression on me.

If you’re looking for tips for your next (or first!) hike or need some mountain inspiration, check out @hannahjnc or send me a message! 😊